Back when Ed was in town, we were browsing at Marshall's one day and saw this pan. (Don't laugh, it's a great place to get pots and pans. That's where I got this stockpot for $80. It'll last longer than me.) I liked the pan but didn't buy it for some reason. So Ed went back and got the pan for me, because that's the kind of guy Ed is. (I don't think they make this particular pan anymore, but Oxo has a 3.5-quart covered saucepan that's a reasonably priced alternative, especially if you use a 20% off coupon at Bed, Bath & Beyond.)
Ed is also one of what Cassie calls my "one-syllable friends." The best friends I've made at my current job are Ed, Joe, and Tim. At my last job, it was John and Paul (no George, and definitely no Rin•go). Some of my running buddies from over the years are Bill, Dan, Jim, two Johns, and two Toms. Brian and Rollin are just the exceptions who prove the rule, Cassie says.
Dylan is home for fall break so we made Marcella Hazan's simple veal pasta sauce in the saucier pan, and then finished the meatballs in there, too. Dylan steered us away from industrially farmed meat years ago, so the veal came from Babes in the Wood and the beef from Free Union Grass Farm (which is who I get my fresh eggs from every Saturday morning at the City Market).
The veal sauce is very tasty but it's quite thick and there is not enough of it to finish cooking the meatballs effectively, so I wouldn't ordinarily use it for that purpose. But I was trying to use up the rest of the veal I had in the freezer so I made do by using more pasta cooking water to lengthen (allungare) the sauce (see step 5 in both recipes). Just be careful not to use too much cooking water or you'll dilute the flavor of the sauce. My usual recipe for a quick tomato sauce that works better for the final cooking of the meatballs is in the second recipe.
Spaghetti and Meatballs
For more tender and flavorful meatballs, substitute up to ½ pound of ground veal or ground pork for an equal amount of ground beef.
Meatballs
¼ cup (60 grams) plain yogurt plus 1 tablespoon milk; or ⅓ cup (80 grams) buttermilk1 egg yolk
1 medium garlic clove, mashed to a paste with some of the salt
¾ teaspoon kosher salt
¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
¼ cup (15 grams) freshly grated Parmesan or pecorino Romano cheese
1 tablespoon minced fresh parsley
1½ teaspoons minced fresh oregano, or ¾ teaspoon dried oregano
a pinch of freshly grated nutmeg
¼ cup potato flakes (12 grams) or freshly ground bread crumbs or gluten-free bread crumbs
1 pound ground beef (see note)
Quick Tomato Sauce
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil or butter or a mixture
1 medium shallot or ½ of a small onion, minced
¼ teaspoon dried oregano or 1 teaspoon minced fresh oregano
a pinch of crushed red pepper flakes
1 medium garlic clove, minced or pressed
1 (28-ounce) can crushed tomatoes (I use Hunt's for a smoother sauce, Muir Glen for a slightly chunkier sauce)
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1 tablespoon basil chiffonade, optional
1 to 2 tablespoons fine sea salt
1 pound spaghetti
freshly grated Parmesan cheese
1. For the meatballs: Heat the oven to 400°F. Line an 18-by-13-inch baking sheet with foil, dull side up, and spray the foil with cooking spray. Don't skip this step or the meatballs will stick to the foil.
2. In a large bowl, whisk together all of the ingredients except the beef. Add the beef and knead gently with your hands until the mixture is thoroughly combined and the flavorings are evenly distributed. Gently roll the mixture into balls about 1½ inches in diameter (the size of ping pong balls). You should have about 15 meatballs.
3. Bake the meatballs until well browned, about 20 to 25 minutes. Let them cool on the baking sheet for at least 5 minutes, which keeps them from sticking to the foil. Peel the meatballs off, then put them on a plate lined with paper towels.
4. For the sauce: Meanwhile, heat the olive oil and/or butter in a saucier pan or large sauté pan over medium heat. Add the shallot or onion, oregano, and red pepper flakes and cook until the shallot or onion is softened and translucent but not browned, about 2 minutes for the shallot and 5 minutes for the onion. Add the garlic and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add the tomatoes and kosher salt and simmer until slightly thickened, about 5 minutes. Add the meatballs, cover the pan, and simmer gently for about 10 minutes. Taste and adjust for salt. Just before serving, stir in the basil, if using.
5. Meanwhile, bring 4 quarts of water to a rolling boil in a large stockpot over high heat. Around when you add the meatballs to the sauce, add the fine sea salt to the stockpot and stir to dissolve. Add the pasta and stir a few times during the first minute or two to keep it from sticking. Cook until al dente, then drain, reserving a mugful of the pasta cooking water. Return the pasta to the pot. Remove the meatballs from the sauce, then add pasta cooking water to the sauce as needed to adjust the consistency. Combine the spaghetti and the sauce and toss until well-coated. Serve the spaghetti immediately, topped with meatballs and Parmesan. Serves 4 to 6.
Simple Veal Pasta Sauce
1 tablespoon (13 grams) olive oil
¼ cup (30 grams) diced onion
½ pound ground veal
1 15-ounce can diced tomatoes, drained
½ teaspoon kosher salt
freshly ground black pepper
¼ cup (½ ounce) freshly grated Parmesan cheese
1. Bring 4 quarts of water to a rolling boil in a large stockpot. When boiling, add the fine sea salt and stir to dissolve. Add the pasta and stir well for a minute. Cook until al dente, then drain, reserving a mugful of the pasta cooking water.
2. Meanwhile, put 2 tablespoons (28 grams) of the butter and the oil in a saucier pan or large saucepan and place the pan over medium heat. Cook the onion, stirring occasionally, until it is softened and translucent but not browned, about 5 minutes.
3. Add the veal and brown it all over, breaking it up some with a spatula or a wooden spoon with a flat edge.
4. Stir in the tomatoes, kosher salt, and pepper to taste. Cook at a slow but steady simmer, stirring occasionally, for 15 to 20 minutes.
5. Toss the cooked pasta with the sauce, the remaining tablespoon of butter, and the Parmesan. Taste and adjust for salt and pepper. Add some of the reserved pasta cooking water as needed to adjust the consistency of the sauce. Serve immediately. Serves 4 to 6.
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