Fast food, episode XII

I hear you: "Good grief, do we really need another recipe for scrambled eggs?" Well, thank you for asking, because yes, yes you do. This one is the easiest, quickest, and maybe tastiest of all, with no added dairy or extra yolks to make them richer. Brad watched me make these and couldn't believe how quick and easy it was; so quick and easy that he started having them for breakfast every day. Five minutes to make enough yummy protein to satisfy even JC (for an hour or two anyway). 

 

Quickest Scrambled Eggs

 

Adapted from Jeanne Maguire from Milk Street TV (S1:E6), (video starts ~20:10)

Time: 5 minutes (for 2 eggs)

For 8 eggs (serving 4), use 2 tablespoons (27 grams) oil, ¾ teaspoon kosher salt, and a 12-inch nonstick skillet.

 

1 tablespoon (13 grams) extra-virgin olive oil

2 large eggs (~57 grams each still in the shell)

Scant ¼ teaspoon Diamond Crystal kosher salt

Freshly ground black pepper

    1. In an 8-inch nonstick skillet, heat the oil over medium heat (maybe a notch or so above medium on an electric burner) until shimmering and just starting to smoke, about 3 minutes.

    2. Meanwhile, crack the eggs into a small bowl and add the salt. Whisk until homogeneous, loose, and frothy.

    3. When the oil is ready, pour the eggs into the center of the pan. Using a silicone spatula, push the egg from the sides of the pan toward the middle until the egg starts to firm up around the edge, then start folding over onto itself until the eggs are just set but still shiny, wet, and soft. This only takes up to 60 seconds for 2 eggs (60 to 90 seconds for 8 eggs). Transfer immediately to a waiting plate, where the eggs will finish cooking. (If the eggs are completely done in the pan, they'll be overcooked on the plate.) Season to taste with salt and pepper. Serve promptly. Serves 1.

Use a microwave, episode I

I've always liked the convenience of the microwave for making some actual food, rather than just reheating leftovers.* For example, it's a great shortcut for cooking the potatoes partway for gnocchi. But some things I love are cooked start to finish in the microwave, including what is (or at least should be) everyone's favorite Thanksgiving condiment, Dried Cherry Chutney. And it's nice to have the option of a quick-and-easy chocolate mug cake made with pantry ingredients when you're desperate for something sweet. (Apricot marmalade and homemade ricotta are good too.)

 

Still, I haven't explored the microwave for "real" cooking as much as I should have, even though I've had a classic microwave cookbook—Microwave Gourmet (1987) by Barbara Kafka (50¢ at the book sale!)—on my shelf for years. That's going to change though, now that I've been inspired by Dylan and Moriah sending me the Cooking at Home (2021) book, in which David Chang, in particular, extols the virtues of microwave cooking, including the Microwave Eggplant Parmesan that Moriah wrote up in her guest post. Chang goes so far as to say that he "could not live" without his microwave, which he thinks is "the single best piece of equipment in a kitchen. Here is this machine that will save you 60 percent of cooking time and a bunch of dishes to clean up for almost anything you make," yet it's collecting dust in most American homes. Chang's love for his microwave also led me to the website of Anyday, a manufacturer of high-end microwave cookware designed with Chang's help, which has an extensive collection of simple recipes, a number of which look interesting.

 

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*In addition to reheating leftovers, your microwave is great for a bunch of other kitchen tasks, including: melting chocolate; clarifying butter; caramelizing sugar; toasting dried chiles; making an emergency roux; getting more juice out of citrus (nuke for a few seconds before juicing); releasing flavor compounds in herbs or spices (nuke for a minute in some oil); and mellowing raw garlic (nuke for 10–15 seconds; makes the cloves easier to peel too).

 

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Happiness is a wool blanket

I've been reading, and taking much delight in, The Book of Delights (2019) by the poet Ross Gay.* It's a book of 102 "essayettes" that Gay wrote over a one-year period between his forty-second and forty-third birthdays. Each essay describes one or more, usually small, things he took delight in that day. His practice is a good example of the happiness-enhancing activity of savoring life's joys, which is high on my list. 

 

Now that the nights have finally turned cold, I have been taking particular delight in the wool blanket that Leen and Clint gifted me last year. I only need about half of it to keep me warm most nights, but when it's really cold, I pull the blanket up under my chin and that's all I need to feel warm and cozy as I'm dozing off. Mom and I grew up on the Peanuts comics and TV shows, but you mostly missed out on that. They kept making the television specials after Charles Schulz died in 2000, and one of the newer ones is called "Happiness Is a Warm Blanket, Charlie Brown," in which Linus searches for his beloved blanket that his sister Lucy hid to try and break his dependence on it. (You can watch the whole show on the Internet Archive.) I think Linus definitely got that one right.

Mom recently had occasion to count her own blessings when, after the presidential election, I decided that it was safe to start watching The Daily Show with Trevor Noah again. Mom was so happy she shouted that Trevor Noah brought her more joy than anything else in her life, followed by her Fitbit and her new floors. Then the implications of that statement dawned on Mom and she hastened to add "and my husband and my children, of course." Of course. No offense, but at least I'm above you nugs in the pecking order.

 

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*Laugh-out-loudest line so far: Mitch McConnell's visage, which is what Gay would call an "alarmed smile/frown," is "of someone whose penis is in a vise."

 

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Lawyering and positive psychology

I just plowed through my latest positive psychology [1] book, The Happiness Advantage (2010) by Shawn Achor. Early in the book, Achor uses lawyers and law students as the poster children for people who can benefit from a good dose of positive psychology. He cites a 2009 article ("Stemming the Tide of Law Student Depression: What Law Schools Need To Learn from the Science of Positive Psychology") by Todd David Peterson and Elizabeth Waters Peterson for the appalling statistic that lawyers are 3.6 times more likely to suffer from a major depressive disorder than the rest of the employed population, putting them (us) at the "unenviable zenith of depressed professionals." The original article includes more eye-opening numbers, such as that 20% to 35% of lawyers are "clinically distressed," as opposed to only 2% of the general population, and that an astounding 70% or lawyers are likely to develop alcohol-related problems over the course of their (our) lifetimes, compared to just 13.7% of the general population. And the problems start in law school, with 44% of law students meeting the criteria for clinically significant levels of psychological distress. "Law students also report significantly higher levels of alcohol and drug use than college and high school graduates of the same age, and their alcohol use increases between their second and third year of law school." These problems are not generalizable to other overworked graduate students, as law students have significantly higher levels of stress, stress symptoms, and alcohol abuse than even medical students. No wonder Achor, who worked at Harvard for years, reports that several Harvard Law School students told him that they often studied at the Education School library because "just being in the same room with other law students, even if no one said a word, spread negative stress like secondhand smoke."

Flipping fartgate

A few weeks ago, Mom and I watched a segment on The Daily Show in which they tried to figured out who was responsible for an audible fart caught on-mic while Chris Matthews of MSNBC was interviewing Eric Swalwell, the Democratic congressman from California and short-lived presidential candidate. Trevor Noah made the case that Matthews must have been the culprit because the same thing has happened during other shows that Matthews was moderating, when Swalwell was not the guest. Mom rarely laughs out loud while watching TV or a movie, but with her adolescent sense of humor, you can imagine how much she guffawed during this segment each time she has viewed it then and since.

Last night, Mom did her best Chris Matthews impersonation while Brad was shooting a video of me executing the flip while frying an egg over easy. There, nine seconds in, you can hear Mom's gaseous contribution to your culinary educations. Not that Mom would try to deny it, given how proud she is of her flatulence, but the proof that it was her is right there in the video, when you here Cassie ID the perp: "Mother!! Look at her try not to laugh!" [1] You can see how flustered I was, because the first flip was relatively well executed—under control and not too high so as not to break the yolk—while the second flip was wild and nearly disastrous. Could you imagine if someone pulled this kind of stunt while Gordon Ramsay was demonstrating a technique in his kitchen?



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[1] In the law, we call this an "excited utterance," which is considered so inherently reliable that it is a recognized exception to the usual rule against admitting hearsay evidence. Rule 803(2) of the Federal Rules of Evidence defines an "excited utterance" as "[a] statement relating to a startling event or condition, made while the declarant was under the stress of excitement that it caused," which accurately describes the circumstances under which Cassie uttered the statement in question.

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My last Padawan learner

Over the years, I've given you all cooking lessons sometime before you had to start feeding yourselves and were no longer on a college meal plan. For Brad and Cass, it was the summer before your sophomore years, but I started much earlier with Dylan and Patrick (remember your mise en place, the very first formal lesson I conducted?). This past summer was Brad's turn, and I think he was my most enthusiastic apprentice yet, helping every chance he got without complaint. Brad made a list at the beginning of the summer of dishes he wanted to learn how to make, and we got through almost all of them.

I may not be the best teacher, but I think you all went off knowing at least enough to keep yourselves fed and to not be in a panic at the thought of doing so. And I certainly did a better job than this clown, whose Padawan basically caused the destruction of the Jedi Order (pending any significant developments in Episode IX):

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Here is the most basic item for getting something hot and relatively nourishing into your belly lickety split. You probably don't need a recipe for a fried egg sandwich, but now it's here just in case. 

Fried Egg Sandwich

Time: 7 minutes

Remember that you can combine this with Avocado Toast to make a more filling, well-rounded meal.

2 pieces of good sandwich bread
a scant ¼ teaspoon of olive oil or a neutral-flavored oil such as sunflower
a thin pat of unsalted butter
1 large egg (~57 grams in the shell)
kosher salt
freshly ground black pepper

    1. Toast the bread to your liking.
    2. Meanwhile, warm the oil in an 8-inch nonstick or enameled cast-iron (like Le Creuset) skillet over medium heat until the oil is shimmering, about 2 to 3 minutes (the longer time for cast iron).
    3. Add the butter to the pan, and turn the heat up a notch or two.
    4. When the butter is melted and foaming, crack the egg into the pan. Break the yolk using the smooth side of the shell (so you don’t scratch the pan). Season with a pinch of salt and a twist or two of pepper, to taste. Cook, without moving, until the egg is set around the edges, about 90 seconds. Using a spatula, or just the pan and a flick of your wrist if you dare, flip the egg and cook just until the yolk is cooked through, about 30 seconds.
    5. Slide the egg onto the toasted bread and eat promptly. Serves one.

The request hour, episode IV

I used to make these egg quesadillas for Cassie regularly. She requested that I post the recipe so she can have easy access to it here on the blog. So here it is, a quick, healthy meal for a college student on the go.

Egg Quesadilla

Adapted from the River Cottage Baby & Toddler Cookbook (2012) by Nikki Duffy

Time: <9 minutes 

1 (6-inch) corn tortilla (Ula Tortillas are especially good if you’re in C’ville)
1 large egg
kosher salt
freshly ground black pepper
a small pat (~1 teaspoon) of unsalted butter
a little bit of grated hard cheese (such as Parmesan or Romano) or soft cheese (such as Cheddar or a mild gouda)

    1. Place an 8-inch nonstick skillet over medium heat. Heat the tortilla until pliable, about 45–60 seconds on each side. Transfer to a plate.
    2. Meanwhile, crack the egg into a small bowl. Add a pinch of salt and a twist of pepper. Beat the egg lightly with a fork, just until uniform in color.
    3. Melt the butter in the same skillet, still over medium heat. Pour the egg mixture into the skillet, swirling the pan gently if necessary to form a round pancake. Cook, without moving, until the egg is set on the bottom but still wet on the top, about 1 minute.
    4. Drop the warm tortilla onto the egg, and cook until the egg and the tortilla are fused, about 1 minute. Using a spatula, flip the egg and tortilla over together. Sprinkle with cheese. Cook until the cheese is starting to melt and the tortilla is lightly browned on the bottom, about 1 minute.
    5. Slide onto the plate. Fold the tortilla in half. Wait a few seconds to allow the cheese to melt completely, then eat promptly. Serves 1.

The music of pain

Once in a while, one of you will catch me listening to some country music on the radio, when there's nothing else on. You make fun of me because, you say, the songs are all about a very limited number of subjects, mostly booze, pickup trucks, and broken hearts. Well, you can't fault country music for the latter, which is covered in plenty of classical, rock, pop, and every other type of song as well. It's just that country songs have a special way of putting things that gets right to the (broken) heart of the matter.

Recently, we were re-watching some episodes of the greatest of all TV shows, Buffy the Vampire Slayer. In "Prophecy Girl," the twelfth and last episode of Season 1, Buffy refuses Xander's invitation to accompany him to a school dance, because she doesn't think of him "that way." So Xander decides not to go the dance at all. Instead, "I'm just gonna go home, lie down, and listen to country music. The music of pain." Later in the show, we see Xander lying in bed listening to "I Fall to Pieces" by Patsy Cline. That is a classic scene, made that much better by the use of appropriately painful country music.

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Desperate times

Friday is one of those days it's hard to come home and have any ideas on "what's for dinner?" I often look at the counter and see a leftover avocado or two that Mom didn't use for lunch on the verge of going bad and I wonder how to save them. I read an article about avocado toast a while back and did some research and found out, to my surprise, that it had gone viral. I asked Mom if she wanted to try some avocado toast for dinner, and she asked, "Is that really a thing?" I told her to Google "avocado toast," which she did, and quickly confirmed that avocado toast is most definitely "a thing." She had some plain, on her child-sized gluten-free bread, while I made a more dinner-like sandwich for Brad and me by adding a fried egg. Brad wouldn't go so far as to say that it was a "taste sensation," but he did think it was good and ate his whole sandwich hungrily. On the other hand, Mom and I liked it so much, we just had some more for second breakfast this morning. Mom pronounced it "heavenly" and her new favorite food, and wondered how we've managed to do without it all our lives. I won't go that far, but it is a good option if you're casting about desperately for something to eat and happen to have a ripe avocado on hand.

Avocado Toast

Adapted from Smitten Kitchen (inspired by Cafe Gitane in New York City, where you, too, can pay $8.00 for a piece of avocado toast)

Time: 7 minutes

The internet is loaded with ideas to dress up your avocado toast, if you're so inclined. I don't see much need, but I did add an egg for Brad and me to stretch this into a full meal. One simple thing you can do to amp up the flavor is sprinkle on some Trader Joe’s Everything but the Bagel Sesame Seasoning Blend.

1 thick slice of hearty bread, preferably with something crunchy in it (they use seven-grain bread at Cafe Gitane)
half of a ripe avocado
good extra-virgin olive oil
lemon juice
flaky sea salt like Maldon, or fleur de sel (see note)
crushed red pepper flakes

Toast the bread till it’s dark and firm. Scoop the avocado onto the toast, then mash it down gently, spreading the avocado from edge to edge. Drizzle with olive oil, then squeeze on a few drops of lemon juice. Sprinkle with a pinch of salt and lots of crushed red pepper flakes, or to taste.

Chipmunk food

For a few days after having their wisdom teeth extracted, Brad and Cass went to the mirror often to see if they still "looked like chipmunks." They've been following the usual diet of soft foods, including lots of yogurt, smoothies, applesauce, Trader Joe's/Annie's mac and cheese, and ice cream (milkshakes and, thanks to Mary Alice, root beer floats). The doctors also suggested scrambled eggs, so I've tried to redeem myself for my parental lapses by making these for whoever wants them.

Scrambled Eggs

Adapted from Cook's Illustrated #111, July/Aug 2011 (with video)

The original recipe uses an extra yolk "to approximate the richer flavor of farm-fresh eggs." Because I buy farm-fresh eggs at the City Market, I don't bother with the extra yolk. If you're using store-bought eggs, add an extra yolk. For a real treat, beat ¼ cup of duxelles into the eggs in step one with the rest of the ingredients.

4 large (~57 grams in the shell) farm-fresh eggs (add an extra yolk if you're using store-bought eggs; see note)
2 tablespoons (30 grams) half-and-half
¼ teaspoon Diamond Crystal kosher salt, or ⅛ teaspoon fine sea salt
⅛ teaspoon pepper
½ tablespoon cold unsalted butter
finishing salt such as fleur de sel

    1. In a small bowl, beat all of the ingredients except the butter with a fork or two (not a whisk) until just combined and the color is pure yellow. Don't overbeat.
    2. Heat the butter in an 8-inch nonstick skillet over medium-high heat just until melted, but not browned. Swirl to coat the pan. Add the egg mixture. Using a silicone spatula, constantly scrape the bottom and sides of the pan to form large curds. As soon as the spatula just leaves a trail on the bottom of the pan without any egg mixture filling in the gap, about a minute or so, turn the heat down to low and switch to a gentle folding motion to avoid breaking up the large curds. Cook just until the eggs look cooked through but are still glossy and just slightly wet, about 45 seconds more. Immediately transfer the eggs to waiting plates to stop the cooking process. Season with finishing salt to taste, and serve immediately. Serves 2. (The recipe can be doubled and cooked in a 10-inch nonstick skillet to serve 4. The cooking times will be a little longer.)

Breakfast for dinner, part I

Dylan asked for my French toast recipe, which is funny because I don't remember any of you liking French toast all that much (Cassie won't eat it at all). Since we haven't made it in a while, and have three different recipes in my "favorites" binder, I tried them all again.

The first was Bell-less, Whistle-less, Damn Good French Toast, from Food52 (video here), which is the simplest, using only two ingredients for the batter. It was good, but we found it a little too egg-y. The second was from the short-lived In the Weeds blog by local chef Tim Burgess. The recipe is different because it uses the juice of a clementine, and we liked that one a lot. It's worth a try for a change, but the clear winner was from Cook's Illustrated. It's a bit fussy as usual, but it makes the tastiest French toast, crisp on the outside and custard-y on the inside like it should be. I've simplified it to take out some of the fussiness, but you can see the original recipe being made in the video on this page. The Cook's Illustrated recipe uses egg yolks only to reduce the egg-yness, so I also made a simple egg white omelet to use up the egg whites.

French Toast 

Adapted from the Cook's Illustrated Cookbook (2011)

You can also cook the French toast on an electric griddle set to 350 degrees. French toast is supposed to be made with stale bread (the French call it pain perdu, or "lost bread"). The original recipe calls for toasting the bread in a 300 degree oven for about 15 minutes to dry it out, but I think that's more trouble than it's worth. If you want to make bread stale, just put it in the fridge for a day or two before you make the French toast, or slice it in the morning and leave it out on the counter all day before making the French toast that evening. It will be plenty stale by then. Instructions for substituting for whole milk are on the "Substitutions" page. I used 280 grams of 1% milk plus 83 grams of half-and-half, since those are the two things we always have around. Challah makes the best French toast. You can substitute a decent white sandwich bread like Arnold Country White, but it's not nearly as good. I also made some for Mom using lightly toasted Trader Joe's Gluten Free Whole Grain Bread, and she liked it just fine.

1½ cups (363 grams) whole milk (see note)
3 large egg yolks
3 tablespoons (40 grams) light brown sugar
2 tablespoons (1 ounce; 28 grams) unsalted butter, melted, plus more for cooking
1 tablespoon (~12g) vanilla extract
½ teaspoon ground cinnamon
¼ teaspoon fine salt
1 loaf good-quality challah bread, cut into about eight ½-inch-thick slices (see note)
Maple syrup, for serving

    1. Set a wire rack inside a 13-by-18-inch baking sheet. Place inside the oven set to its lowest setting (200 degrees or below).
    2. In a large bowl, whisk together the milk, egg yolks, brown sugar, melted butter, vanilla, cinnamon, and salt. Keep the whisk handy.
    3. Heat a good pat of butter (about ½ tablespoon) in a 12-inch cast-iron or stainless-steel (not nonstick) skillet over medium heat (see note).
    4. Meanwhile, soak two pieces of bread in the milk mixture just until the bread is moistened throughout but not falling apart. Very gently, pinch the bread with your fingertips to help draw the liquid into the center so the bread is evenly moistened but not oversaturated (see the technique about 1:24 into this video). You shouldn't be able to feel any dry pockets as you're pinching.
    5. Swirl the butter to coat the bottom of the skillet. Pick up the soaked bread, allowing any excess milk mixture to drip back into the bowl, and transfer to the hot skillet. Fry until golden brown and crisp on both sides, about 3 to 4 minutes per side. At some point, you will probably have to turn the heat down a notch or two to maintain the right amount of heat.
    6. When the first two pieces are cooked, transfer them to the baking sheet in the oven while you make the rest of the French toast. Repeat the process with the remaining bread, re-whisking the batter before each time you soak more bread. Serve warm with real maple syrup, not the horrible corn-syrup-laden stuff your mom likes. Serves 4 dainty eaters.

Egg White Omelet

Adapted from Renee Schettler in the Washington Post, 12/29/04 (adapted from Food & Wine, April 2003)

If you want to fill the omelet with something, like grated cheese, have it ready to go before you start on the omelet, which takes less than 10 minutes from start to finish. The Washington Post article accompanying the recipe has some more ideas for fillings, like avocado and feta. The Food & Wine recipe has sauteed shallot and wild mushrooms in the omelet itself, rather than as a filling. If you have an enameled cast-iron skillet like the one Great Grandma Sisi gave me, you can finish the omelet under the broiler instead, as in the Washington Post and Food & Wine recipes.

3 large egg whites
Salt
Freshly ground black pepper
1 tablespoon olive oil or butter

    1. Heat the oven to 400 degrees, or whatever is the maximum temperature for your nonstick skillet (see note). In a medium bowl, whisk the egg whites, salt, and pepper until very frothy.
    2. Heat the oil or butter in an 8-inch nonstick, ovenproof skillet over medium heat until melted. Pour the egg whites into the skillet and cook until almost opaque. As the whites set on the bottom, lift the edges with a spatula to allow the uncooked whites to flow underneath, just as you would with a frittata.
    3. When the bottom is set, but the whites on top are not completely cooked, transfer the skillet to the oven and cook until the top is puffed and just barely set, no more than a few minutes. Remove carefully from the oven. If desired, top with a filling (see note). Fold one-third of the omelet onto itself, then roll it out onto a plate in a neat shape, folding the remaining third over. Serve promptly.

A gift from Iceland

Dylan's graduation was followed up by a trip to Iceland and Paris. Dylan put some real thought into his gifts and brought me back some flaky Icelandic Black Lava Salt to add to my collection.

The black salt made me think about a little riff on my usual breakfast after running with the Saturday Morning Crew and visiting the City Market: two super-fresh eggs from Free Union Grass Farm with flaky sea salt and freshly cracked black pepper. This is the reverse of that—eggs with black salt and white pepper—but of course you can go with the usual combination and they'll be just as good. If you're getting fresh eggs at the market, don't forget to pick up some bread from MarieBette, too, to dip into the runny yolks.

Fried Eggs Sunny Side Up 

Adapted from Cook's Illustrated #123, July/Aug 2013 (video)

Time from start to finish: 7 minutes

1 teaspoon oil
2 farm-fresh eggs
flaky sea salt, such as Maldon or fleur de sel
freshly ground black pepper
a pat of butter

    1. Heat the oil over medium heat in an 8-inch nonstick skillet that has a lid. Crack the eggs into a small bowl and season to taste with salt and pepper.
    2. Increase the heat to medium-high and heat until the oil is shimmering. Add the butter and swirl to coat the pan. Pour in the eggs, cover the pan, and fry for 1 minute. Remove the pan from the heat. Let stand, still covered, for 1 minute or so for soft yolks, and up to 2 minutes depending on how set you like the yolks to be. If you need to check the eggs for doneness, crack the lid ever so slightly to take a quick peek, then re-cover quickly if you want the eggs more cooked. Taste for seasoning. Serve promptly with good, fresh bread for dipping into the yolks. Serves one.

The request hour, episode II

Dylan asked recently about the recipe for frittata with zucchini, which Mom made for him a while ago. But it's not zucchini season. That's the beauty of a frittata though; you just put in whatever you have on hand that's fresh and seasonal. Last week I discovered that Brad really likes spinach so I picked up some tender, early spring spinach from Elena at the City Market and threw it into a frittata along with a few small potatoes I had stored. Later in the summer, when we have more zucchini than we know what to do with, we'll swap out the potatoes for pieces of zucchini. And if you don't want anything green in there, leave it out, the frittata will still be good (especially if you use farm-fresh eggs, which make all the difference).

Frittata with Potato and Spinach

Adapted from The Art of Simple Food (2007) by Alice Waters

For the spinach, you can substitute kale, chard, broccoli rabe, or any other greens. If you use greens with tough stems, like kale and chard, you’ll need to separate the stems from the leaves. Cut the stems into ¼-inch pieces and add them to the pan along with the onions and potatoes. Many other things can be stirred into frittatas, including chopped roasted peppers, mushrooms (see recipe below), zucchini, even pasta.

3 tablespoons olive oil, divided
1 medium shallot or ½ small onion, finely diced (~¼ cup)
2 very small (less than 2-inch) organic potatoes, quartered and sliced very thin
1 bunch baby or tender spinach, washed and coarsely chopped (see note)
kosher salt
6 farm-fresh eggs
freshly ground black pepper
a pinch of cayenne pepper
a handful of chopped fresh herbs, such as oregano, basil, and/or parsley (optional)

    1. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Heat 2 tablespoons of the oil in an ovenproof 10-inch nonstick skillet over medium heat. Add the onions and potatoes. Saute for 5 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add the spinach, and season everything with salt. Cook until the onions and potatoes are softened and the spinach is wilted and tender, about 4 or 5 minutes. Transfer the vegetables to a small bowl.
    2. Meanwhile, crack the eggs into a large bowl. Add a good pinch of salt, a few twists of black pepper, a pinch of cayenne, and the herbs, if using. Beat lightly with a whisk or a fork until the mixture is uniform. Stir the vegetables into the beaten eggs.
    3. Return the skillet to medium heat and add the remaining 1 tablespoon oil. When the oil is warmed, pour in the egg mixture and stir gently to evenly distribute the veggies and herbs. Once the bottom is set, lift the edges with a thin silicone spatula to allow some uncooked egg to flow underneath. Repeat until the egg on top is mostly cooked. Put the pan in the oven and bake until the frittata is set on top, dry to the touch, and puffed (it will deflate when you flip it), about 5 minutes.
    4. Carefully remove the hot pan from the oven (don't forget the pot holder or oven mitt!). Run the spatula around the edge of the pan to loosen the frittata. Carefully invert onto a plate or platter, and cut into quarters. Serves 2 to 4.

3-egg mushroom frittata ready to be flipped out of the pan

Frittata with Mushrooms

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 large shallot or 1 very small onion, finely diced (~½ cup)
½ pound wild, cremini, or white button mushrooms, cleaned and thinly sliced
6 large eggs, preferably farm-fresh
¼ cup (15 grams) freshly grated Parmesan or Grana Padano cheese
2 tablespoons minced fresh herbs such as basil, oregano, and/or parsley, optional
kosher salt
freshly ground black pepper

    1. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Heat the oil in an ovenproof 10-inch nonstick skillet over medium heat. Add the shallot or onion and sauté until translucent and softened but not browned, 3 to 5 minutes depending on whether you’re using shallot (less time) or onion (more). Add the mushrooms and sauté until the mushrooms have released their liquid, the liquid has evaporated, and the mushrooms are golden brown and delicious, about 8 minutes.
    2. Meanwhile, crack the eggs into a large bowl. Add the grated cheese, herbs, a good pinch of salt, and a few twists of black pepper. Beat lightly with a whisk or a fork until the mixture is uniform.
    3. Add the egg mixture to the skillet, and stir gently to evenly distribute the vegetables. Once the bottom of the frittata is set, lift the edges with a thin silicone spatula to allow some uncooked egg to flow underneath. Repeat until the egg on top is mostly cooked. Put the pan in the oven and bake until the frittata is set on top, dry to the touch, and puffed (it will deflate when you flip it), about 5 minutes.
    4. Carefully remove the hot pan from the oven (don't forget the pot holder or oven mitt!). Run the spatula around the edge of the pan to loosen the frittata. Carefully invert onto a plate or platter, and cut into quarters. Serves 2 to 4.