Sunday, April 10, 2016

Making a pan sauce

This is a great recipe to work through for two reasons. First, it's really tasty, one of our favorites for many years; Mom and I used to have Chicken Piccata almost every week before the dark (vegetarian) times came. Second, knowing how to make a pan sauce is a really useful technique. It's an easy way to elevate a simple sauteed chicken breast (or a pork chop or a seared steak or any other kind of meat) into something really delicious.

All you do is cook the meat in a stainless steel pan; it can't be nonstick because otherwise there won't be little caramelized brown bits of goodness (called fond) left in the bottom of the pan. Once the meat is done, you take it out, then saute an aromatic, often shallot, in the fat left in the pan. Add some kind of liquid—wine or other alcohol, stock, vegetable broth, even water—and deglaze the pan by scraping up the fond with a wooden spoon while the sauce boils and reduces, concentrating all the flavors. Once the liquid is reduced, you usually whisk or stir in some cream or butter, some kind of herb (parsley, thyme, chives), and an acid (vinegar, lemon juice) to brighten the sauce. Pour it over the meat and dig in. Here is a decent video showing the general steps.

The main recipe is for Chicken Piccata, which is the one I made tonight and that we've had the most often, but the other sauces are good, too. I only included the ingredients and the steps for making the chicken in the main recipe.


Chicken Piccata

Adapted from The Best Recipe (1999) and the Cook's Illustrated Cookbook (2011)

Sautéed Chicken Breasts
4 boneless, skinless chicken breasts (about 6 to 8 ounces each, 1½ to 2 pounds total)
kosher salt
freshly ground black pepper
1 tablespoon neutral-flavored oil such as sunflower or canola
1 tablespoon unsalted butter

Sauce
1 small shallot, minced (2 to 3 tablespoons)
¾ cup real chicken stock or low-sodium vegetable broth
¼ cup lemon juice from 1 large lemon, divided
2 tablespoons (20 grams) capers, rinsed if you like
2 tablespoons (30 grams) cold unsalted butter, cut into ½-inch pieces
1 tablespoon chopped fresh parsley leaves  
salt and freshly ground black pepper

    1. For the chicken breasts: To make thin cutlets, halve each breast crosswise, then halve only the thicker piece horizontally (
place the palm of your non-knife hand on top of the thicker piece, then slice through the center with a sharp knife). Place the cutlets between sheets of plastic wrap and gently pound to an even ⅓-inch thickness with a meat pounder or the bottom of a heavy skillet. Pat each cutlet dry with paper towels, then season both sides generously with kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper.
    2. Heat 1 tablespoon each of the oil and butter in a large skillet or sauté pan (not nonstick) over medium-high heat until the butter is melted and sizzling. Lay half the cutlets in the skillet and sauté, without moving, until golden brown on the bottom, about 2 to 3 minutes. Adjust the heat as necessary so the cutlets are browning, not burning. Flip the cutlets (tongs work well here) and sauté until golden brown on the second side and just cooked through, about 2 minutes. Move the cooked cutlets to a large serving platter and tent with foil. Repeat the cooking process with the remaining cutlets.
    3. For the sauce: If there is less than a tablespoon or so of fat left in the pan, add a thin pat of butter to the center of the pan. Add the shallot and place the pan back over medium heat. Sauté, stirring often, until the shallot is fragrant and softened, about a minute. Add the stock or broth and bring to a brisk simmer, raising the heat as needed. Cook until the liquid is reduced to approximately ⅓ cup, about 3 to 4 minutes. While the sauce is reducing, use a wooden spoon to scrape up the brown bits stuck to the bottom of the pan. Stir in all but 2 teaspoons of the lemon juice, the capers, and any juices that have collected around the cooked chicken. Simmer until reduced back down to about ⅓ cup, another minute or two. Remove the pan from the heat and whisk or stir in the cold butter until it melts and thickens the sauce. Stir in the parsley and the remaining 2 teaspoons of lemon juice. Taste and adjust for salt and pepper. Pour the sauce over the chicken and serve promptly with hot buttered noodles. Serves 4.

Chicken Cutlets with Sweet and Sour Sauce

Sauce
¼ cup (60 grams) distilled white vinegar
¼ cup (50 grams) brown sugar
2 tablespoons (35 grams) tamari or soy sauce
½ teaspoon fish sauce or anchovy paste
1½ tablespoons minced or pressed garlic (from 2 or 3 large cloves)
2 teaspoons minced fresh ginger (a Microplane works well for this job)
¼ teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes
4 medium scallions, including the tender green parts, sliced thin on the bias

    1. In a small bowl, whisk together the vinegar, brown sugar, tamari or soy sauce, and fish sauce or anchovy paste in a small bowl.
    2. Combine the garlic, ginger, and red pepper flakes on a cutting board, and mince a little more with a chef's knife to break the pepper flakes into smaller pieces.
    3. Follow the recipe for Chicken Piccata through step 2.
    4. For the sauce:  If there is less than a tablespoon or so of fat left in the pan, add a teaspoon or two of oil to the center of the pan. Add the garlic mixture and place the pan back over medium heat. Sauté until softened, about 30 to 60 seconds. Whisk the vinegar mixture to recombine, then stir into the garlic mixture and bring to a simmer. Cook briefly until the mixture thickens slightly, a minute or less. While the sauce is reducing, use a wooden spoon to quickly scrape up the brown bits stuck to the bottom of the pan. Pour the sauce over the chicken, then scatter the sliced scallions over the top. Serve promptly over white or brown rice. Serves 4.

Chicken Cutlets with Brandied Cream Sauce

Sauce
1 small shallot, minced (2 to 3 tablespoons)
¾ cup real chicken stock or low-sodium vegetable broth
¼ cup brandy, plus 1 tablespoon
2 tablespoons heavy cream
1 teaspoon (5 grams) Dijon mustard
1 tablespoon snipped fresh chives (you can substitute parsley)
2 teaspoons lemon juice
salt and freshly ground black pepper

    1. Follow the recipe for Chicken Piccata through step 2.
    2. For the sauce:  If there is less than a tablespoon or so of fat left in the pan, add a thin pat of butter to the center of the pan. Add the shallot and place the pan back over medium heat. Sauté, stirring often, until the shallot is fragrant and softened, about a minute. Add the stock or broth and then the ¼ cup brandy, and bring to a brisk simmer, raising the heat as needed.  Cook until the liquid is reduced to approximately ⅓ cup, about 4 to 5 minutes. While the sauce is reducing, use a wooden spoon to scrape up the brown bits stuck to the bottom of the pan. Stir in the heavy cream and any juices that have collected around the cooked chicken and simmer until thickened, another 30 to 60 seconds. Remove the pan from the heat and whisk or stir in the mustard, chives, lemon juice, and remaining 1 tablespoon brandy. Taste and adjust for salt and pepper. Pour the sauce over the chicken and serve promptly with hot buttered noodles. Serves 4.

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