Green is good, episode II

I've made plenty of guacamole in the big-ass mortar and pestle I got for my birthday last year, but I've been waiting nine months to put it to its highest use: making pesto with all of the beautiful basil that's available in the summer. Since having trofie with pesto in Genoa a few years ago, I've tried to make it as close as possible to the Ligurian way, both in the making of the pesto and in serving the pasta with potatoes and green beans, which is how I had it in Genoa. The pesto really does come out a lot better using a mortar and pestle, but I've also included instructions for using a food processor. It won't be as “magical and beautiful” as pesto made the traditional way, but it will still taste good.

Pasta al Pesto Ricco

Adapted from a variety of recipes and articles, including Italian Food (1987) by Elizabeth David, Food52, Serious Eats, Samir Nosrat, and Cook's Illustrated #123, July/Aug 2013

Time: ~45 minutes (using a mortar and pestle)

Here is an updated version of the instructions for making pesto in a food processor.

For the pesto
30 grams (¼ cup) raw pine nuts
1 garlic clove, any green center removed
a good pinch of kosher or coarse sea salt
55 grams/2 ounces (2 cups tightly packed) Genovese basil, rinsed, patted dry, and roughly chopped
43 grams/1½ ounces grated Parmesan or Grana Padano cheese (~6 tablespoons grated mechanically, more grated on a Microplane)
14 grams/½ ounce grated pecorino Romano cheese (~2 tablespoons grated mechanically, more grated on a Microplane) 
¼ cup (53 grams) extra-virgin olive oil, more if needed

For the pesto ricco
1 to 2 tablespoons fine sea salt
1 pound dried pasta such as linguine, trenette, bavette, strozzapreti, or trofie
140 grams (5 ounces; ~2 small) organic Yukon Gold or red potatoes, peeled, quartered, and cut into ¼-inch slices
115 grams (4 ounces) green beans, trimmed and cut into 1½-inch lengths
2 tablespoons (1 ounce; 28 grams) unsalted butter, cut into ½-inch pieces
freshly ground black pepper

    1. Bring 4 quarts of water to a rolling boil in a large pot over high heat.
    2a. To make the pesto in a mortar and pestle: Pound and grind the pine nuts to a fine paste. Add the garlic and salt and pound and grind into the paste. Add the basil a handful at a time, pounding and grinding until the basil is completely broken down. Stir in the cheeses. Drizzle the olive oil over in a thin stream, working it in with a wooden spoon until you have the “consistency of creamed butter.” Use a little more oil if needed. Taste, and adjust for salt as needed. If you are not using the pesto right away, transfer it to a glass jar and top with a thin film of olive oil. Store in the fridge for up to 2 days, or freeze. Makes about ⅔ cup (155 grams).
    2b. To make the pesto in a food processor: Add the pine nuts, garlic, and salt to the bowl of a food processor fitted with the metal "s" blade. Process until pulverized. Add the basil and 2 tablespoons (27 grams) of the oil and pulse until all of the basil is finely minced, scraping down the sides of the bowl as needed. Transfer the basil oil to a medium bowl. Stir in the cheeses and the remaining 2 tablespoons oil, working them in until you have the consistency of creamed butter. Use a little more oil if needed. Taste, and adjust for salt as needed. If you are not using the pesto right away, transfer it to a glass jar and top with a thin film of olive oil. Store in the fridge for up to 2 days, or freeze.
    3. To make the pesto ricco: When the water boils, add the fine sea salt and stir to dissolve. You are trying to have the pasta, potatoes, and beans cooked at the same time so plan accordingly, depending on how long it takes the pasta you choose to be cooked al dente. Figure on about 8–9 minutes for tender potatoes and 6–7 minutes for slightly crunchy beans, adding the pasta in when appropriate. When the pasta is al dente, reserve a mugful of the cooking water, then drain the pasta and vegetables in a colander.
    4. Return the drained pasta and vegetables to the empty pot (or transfer to a large serving bowl). Add the pesto, butter, ¼ cup (a 2-ounce ladleful) of the pasta cooking water, and a grind or two of pepper. Stir or toss vigorously until well combined, adding more pasta water 1 tablespoon at a time as needed to achieve a creamy consistency. Serve promptly. Serves 4.