Fresh rosemary, part I

If you live somewhere it doesn't snow or freeze too much in the winter, it's a great idea to plant some rosemary in a garden or a big pot. The rosemary is a perennial that will keep growing, eventually into a huge bush like Grandma Judy has at the beach house. Then you can strip off whatever you need when you want to make some Roasted Potatoes with Garlic and Rosemary. Or this pasta, which is another "fast food" recipe that cooks up in the amount of time it takes to boil a pot of water and cook the pasta.

Even though there's a whole teaspoon of fresh rosemary in this dish, it's really all about the sauteed onions. Is there a better thing to smell when you walk into a kitchen than a pan full of onions being sauteed?

     How easily happiness begins by
     dicing onions. A lump of sweet butter
     slithers and swirls across the floor
     of the sauté pan, especially if its
     errant path crosses a tiny slick
     of olive oil. Then a tumble of onions.

     ....

     This is the best domestic perfume.

    -- From "Onions" by William Matthews (collected in Search Party (2005))

Penne with Onion, Tomato, and Rosemary

Adapted from The Complete Italian Vegetarian Cookbook (1997) by Jack Bishop 

Time: 28 minutes

1 to 2 tablespoons fine sea salt
1 pound penne or ziti
3 tablespoons (40 grams) extra-virgin olive oil
1 medium onion, minced
1 teaspoon minced fresh rosemary leaves
1 28-ounce can whole tomatoes, drained and chopped
1 teaspoon kosher salt
freshly ground black pepper
2 teaspoons aged balsamic vinegar
freshly grated Parmesan cheese

    1. Bring 4 quarts of water to a roiling boil in a large pot over high heat. Add the fine sea salt and stir to dissolve. Add the pasta and stir a few times during the first minute or two to keep it from sticking. Cook until al dente, then drain, reserving a mugful of the pasta water.
    2. Meanwhile, heat the oil in a large skillet or saucier over medium heat. Add the onion and saute until soft and translucent but not browned, about 5 minutes. Stir in the rosemary and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds.
    3. Add the tomatoes, kosher salt, and a few grinds of black pepper. Simmer gently until the sauce thickens, about 10 minutes. When the pasta is almost done, scoop a 2-ounce ladleful (¼ cup) of the pasta cooking water into the sauce.
    4. After draining the pasta, stir the vinegar into the sauce. Turn off the heat, then add the drained pasta to the sauce and toss well. Adjust the consistency as needed with more pasta cooking water. Serve promptly with the Parmesan. Serves 4.