My other self, episode III: another item for my collection

Close readers of my blog (you know who you are) will remember my excitement at the "best present ever"—a pair of sexy Paul Ferrer underwear with a note from my other self. This doesn't rise up to that lofty standard, but Mom did bring me some excellent apricot jam from the Paul Bakery in D.C.

You guys are always making fun of how old I am, but even you know that I haven't been around "depuis 1889," right?

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Here is a simple meal you can throw together using nothing but pantry ingredients and a few things you'll almost always have in your fridge. It's good alone with some crusty bread, but you can also have it with pasta, fried eggs, or even cook some fish fillets in it, as shown below. Or you can bake the fish fillets separately (if you have someone who doesn't want fish in their ragout) or to eat on their own as part of another meal.

Chickpea Ragout

Adapted from Fast Food My Way (2004) by Jacques Pépin via KQED

Time: 35 minutes

In addition to serving the ragout with baked fish fillets, you can also pair it with a couple of fried eggs or pour it over pasta, with or without sausage. You can also substitute a can of red or white beans for the chickpeas.

1 (15.5-ounce) can chickpeas, drained and rinsed (see note)
2 tablespoons (27 grams) extra-virgin olive oil
½ cup diced (½-inch) onion from 1 small or ½ medium onion; or ½ cup minced shallot from 1 large shallot
½ cup chopped scallion from 2 large scallions
1 tablespoon chopped garlic (~3 medium cloves)
2 cups diced (1-inch) fresh tomato; or 1 (14.5-ounce) can diced tomatoes, with their juices
½ cup vegetable broth (you can use ½ cup water + ¼ of a bouillon cube)
½ teaspoon kosher salt
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 tablespoon chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley, for serving

    1. Place the chickpeas in a small bowl and microwave on high power until hot, 1 to 1½ minutes depending on the power of your microwave. (Skip this step if you're substituting white or red beans for the chickpeas.)
    2. Heat the oil in a large saucier or saucepan over medium heat until shimmering. Stir in the onions and scallions. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the onions are soft and translucent, about 5 minutes (about half that for shallots).
    3. Stir in the garlic and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Stir in the chickpeas, tomatoes, broth, salt, and pepper. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat to medium-low, cover, and simmer gently for 15 minutes.
    4. Remove the cover, and raise the heat as needed to maintain a lively simmer. Cook for a few more minutes to reduce the liquid some. Serve promptly, sprinkled with the chopped parsley. Serves 4.

Fish Fillets Baked in Chickpea Ragout

Time: 40 minutes

Prepare the Chickpea Ragout through step 3, except simmer for only 10 minutes. Meanwhile, heat the oven to 425 degrees, and season the fish fillets with salt and pepper. After simmering the Chickpea Ragout for 10 minutes, slide the seasoned fillets into the ragout. Place the pan in the hot oven and bake until the fish is done, about 12 to 15 minutes.

Baked Fish Fillets

Adapted from The Art of Simple Food (2007) by Alice Waters

You can also bake fish in a juicy sauce such as a tomato sauce or a bean or vegetable ragout like the Chickpea Ragout above. Add 5 minutes or so to the cooking time when baking fish in sauce.

extra-virgin olive oil
1 to 1½ pounds fish fillets (4 to 6 ounces per serving)
kosher salt
freshly ground black pepper
lemon wedges, for serving

Heat the oven to 425 degrees. Lightly oil a shallow baking dish or rimmed baking sheet. Place the fillets in the baking dish, season with salt and pepper to taste, and drizzle lightly with olive oil. Bake until the fish is just cooked through at the center, the flesh opaque but still moist, about 7 to 10 minutes, depending on the thickness of the fillets. Waters says to “[g]auge the doneness by pushing in the flesh with your finger. It will feel soft when underdone; as it cooks and sets it will begin to feel a bit springy.” You can also check by cutting into the flesh with a sharp paring knife if you’re unsure. Serve with a spritz of lemon juice. Serves 4.