Cleaning-out-the-fridge recipes, part I

I don't expect this recipe to generate any more page views than the glazed carrot recipe I just posted, but it's worth having in your repertoire because it solves a problem that's been bugging me for a while. You buy a whole bunch of celery to make one of your favorite UaKS recipes like Lentil Stew, Gigli with Lentils, or Dried Cherry Chutney, but you only need one stalk. Then the rest of the bag sits unused in the crisper drawer in your refrigerator for a while,* until it finally goes bad and ends up in your compost bin. Well, not anymore. This recipe uses up all the rest of that celery. Mom was dubious of anything with celery as the star ingredient, but even she agreed that this dish is not just practical but really tasty too. Leave it to the Italians to solve my food problem. (In the Barefoot Contessa video accompanying the recipe I adapted below, Ina says that "Italians really love celery, and they use it much more than we do." Who knew?)

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* Celery will keep for up to a few weeks in the fridge, especially if you take it out of the plastic bag you probably bought it in and wrap it in foil instead before storing it in the crisper drawer.

Celery and Parmesan Salad

Adapted from Ina Garten via the Food Network (with Barefoot Contessa video)

Time: 20 minutes total active, plus 1 hour or more in the fridge

 

Celery is obviously pretty bland on its own, so the genius of this recipe is pepping up the flavor with, among other things, umami from two sources: Parmesan and anchovy paste. Having said that, you can skip the anchovy paste or come up with an acceptable substitute. The original recipe makes a ton of dressing, so I halved it. If you're not a fan of vinegar (you know who you are), this would also make a good dressing for a regular side salad. If you get a very stringy bunch of celery, you can peel off the fibrous outer layer with a vegetable peeler.

12 celery stalks, yielding ~5 cups sliced (see note)

Diamond Crystal kosher salt

45 grams (3 tablespoons) freshly squeezed lemon juice, divided

1 teaspoon grated lemon zest
53 grams (¼ cup) good extra-virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon minced shallot
½ teaspoon celery seed
¼ teaspoon anchovy paste, optional (see note)
freshly ground black pepper
a block of Parmesan cheese
65 grams (⅔ cup) toasted walnuts, coarsely chopped
a palmful of Italian flat-leaf parsley leaves, coarsely chopped

    1. Clean and trim the celery, separating the leaves from the stalks and reserving. Slice the stalks thinly on a sharp angle (bias). Place the celery slices and leaves in a large mixing bowl. Toss with ½ teaspoon kosher salt and 1 tablespoon (15 grams) of the lemon juice.
    2. In a small bowl, whisk together the remaining 2 tablespoons (30 grams) lemon juice, lemon zest, olive oil, shallot, celery seed, anchovy paste, ¼ teaspoon kosher salt, and a few good grinds of pepper. Stir the dressing into the celery. Cover and refrigerate for at least 1 hour.
    3. When ready to serve, transfer the celery to a platter, leaving some of the dressing in the bowl. Taste for seasoning. Using a vegetable peeler, shave thick strips of Parmesan over the celery. Sprinkle with the walnuts and parsley and a grind of pepper. Spoon the remaining dressing over the top. Serves 4 to 6.