Fun science facts, episode II: Nooch me!

I have previously touted the benefits of the RBdigital app as a way to check out magazines from your local library and read them on an iPad or other device. For us locally, at least, that service has been switched over to the Libby app starting this month, so we now have one-stop shopping for digital books and magazines through the JMRL. As far as I can tell, all of the same magazines are still available through Libby, including the New Yorker, Bon Appetit, Cook's Country, and Cook's Illustrated, but I haven't yet found a way to browse through all of the magazines in one place to see what's available as opposed to searching for a specific title. It also seems like I can no longer have new issues of magazines I'm interested in automatically checked out to me, which I could do on RBdigital. Libby does have one nice new feature though, which is a button at the bottom of each page labeled "READ THE ARTICLE." If you can click on that, the whole article gets blown up into nice big type so even an old codger like me can read it comfortably.

 

I used Libby to read the March/April 2021 issue of Cook's Illustrated and saw suggestions for a few different homemade popcorn seasonings, including a spiced chocolate seasoning that looked interesting. They also referred the reader to their website for a "foolproof approach to popping corn." I've used Alton Brown's method for making stovetop popcorn for a while now, but his instruction to pop the corn in a "large, heavy-gauge, 8-quart metal mixing bowl" ended up permanently damaging my large, heavy-gauge, 8-quart mixing bowl:

So, while I love AB dearly, I thought it was worth trying Cooks Illustrated's "foolproof" approach, which uses an actual cooking vessel. Their method is aimed at solving the problem of burning some kernels, while many never pop at all. [1] They get at that in two ways. First, they preheat an oil with a high smoke point with only three test kernels. When the test kernels pop, that tells you the oil has reached the optimal popping temperature. Then you take the pan off the heat and add the rest of the kernels and let them sit in the hot oil for 30 seconds before putting the pan back on the heat. That lets all of the kernels gradually heat up to the same temperature, so they all pop almost simultaneously once they're back on the burner.

 

And it actually works pretty well. We used some very old popcorn and still had less than a dozen unpopped kernels and none at all that were burnt. As for the seasonings, we skipped the butter but used both of the ones set out below. We each liked them both, though Mom preferred the spicy cocoa while I still think nutritional yeast, which is rich in glutamates and nucleotides (umami bomb!), is the unbeatable popcorn seasoning. [2]

 

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[1] The unpopped kernels are typically referred to as "old maids," which is more than a wee bit sexist. As it turns out, there is only so much you can do about unpopped kernels, as up to 4% of even a perfectly fresh, optimally moist batch of kernels will never pop for scientific reasons.

[2] Want something else to use some of that nooch in, once you buy a big bag or jar full of the stuff? (Note: its way cheaper to get a bag from Trader Joe's if that's an option for you.) Try Gena Hamshaw's recipe for Cheesy Cream of Broccoli with Smoky Roasted Chickpeas from her Power Plates book we all like (where I found Rice, Beans, Tofu, and Greens) and then report back to me with the results.

 

Stovetop Popcorn 2.0

 

Adapted from Cook’s Illustrated (Mar/Apr 2021: popcorn, cocoa seasoning)

Time: <15 minutes

I only keep in my pantry unrefined ("virgin") coconut oil, which isn't neutral in flavor and doesn't have a high smoke point, but it does make for tasty popcorn (and really good banana bread). You can mix half coconut oil and half high-smoke-point oil to pop the corn if you like.

40 grams (3 tablespoons) neutral-flavored oil with a high smoke point, such as sunflower, grapeseed, or canola (see note)

⅓ cup (~70 grams) popcorn + 3 kernels

28 grams (2 tablespoons) unsalted butter, melted (optional)

Popcorn salt or other seasoning (see recipes below)

    1. Place the oil and 3 test kernels in a 4-quart or larger pan that has a lid (my favorite saucier is the perfect size and shape for this, but a stockpot is fine). Cover the pan. Heat over medium heat until the test kernels pop.

    2. Remove the pan from the heat, but leave the burner on. Dump in the ⅓ cup of kernels. Cover the pan and wait 30 seconds.

    3. Return the pan to the heat. When the kernels start to pop, shake the pan, with the lid just slightly ajar so steam can escape (face the tiny crack away from you), until the popping slows to a second or two between pops.

    4. Transfer the popcorn to a serving bowl. Toss with the melted butter, if using. Sprinkle generously with salt or whatever seasoning you like. Toss, sprinkle with more salt or seasoning, then toss again. Serve immediately. Serves 3 to 4.

Spiced Cocoa Seasoning

Time: <5 minutes

1 tablespoon (7 grams) confectioners’ sugar

1 tablespoon (5 grams) unsweetened cocoa powder
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

½ teaspoon Diamond Crystal kosher salt
¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper

Grind all of the ingredients to a fine powder in an electric spice grinder or by hand. Store in an airtight container (a spice jar with a shaker lid works well). Makes ~2½ tablespoons.

Nooch Seasoning

Time: <5 minutes

 

You can play around with the nooch seasoning if you like, grinding in some garlic powder, black pepper, dried rosemary, and/or cayenne pepper, but I think the nooch gets the job done on its own.

2 tablespoons (10 grams) nutritional yeast

½ teaspoon Diamond Crystal kosher salt

 

Grind the nooch and salt to a fine powder in an electric spice grinder or by hand. Store in an airtight container (a spice jar with a shaker lid works well). Makes ~2 tablespoons.